An Innovative Custom Interior Carpentry Project…With Video

I am one seriously fortunate guy. Throughout the course of my career, I’ve had the honor of working on some amazing projects. They have ranged the whole spectrum from building custom homes and additions, to jacking an old farm house, to a curved third story deck, to installing an entire showroom worth of high end kitchens and baths, and everything in between. These have all been tremendously rewarding.

But I have to say, the project pictured here, completed several years ago, has been the most fun to date. This is the vision of the homeowner, also a very accomplished woodworker. I got the call from a relative to meet with him to see about helping him clear a hurdle. He had this magnificent vision, and had built and installed the 2 corner cabinets, and hit a bit of a wall. He knew that he wanted to connect the 2 at the top with a soffit and crown molding, connect the 2 at the bottom with a built-in window seat, and the coolest part of all, cut a hole in the floor to allow for a remote controlled telescopic television stand to rise out of the bench seat. He just needed an ounce of additional help to complete this. Count me in! The main reason for wanting the TV to rise out of the window seat- other than the obvious cool factor- was so that the view of the river through the 2 windows behind it would not be obstructed permanently.

We started by formulating a joint game plan to finish the corner cabinets and then move towards tackling the other objectives on the way to reaching the big goal: Hitting that remote button and seeing the flat screen ascend in all it’s glory.

We built the face frames for the cabinets, and he had astutely pre-planned to have the bottom exposed shelf and subsequent nosing line up perfectly with the window sill nosing to tie everything together at that level. It’s funny, he calls himself “Just Ye Olde Homeowner,” but foresight like this makes it crystal clear that he knows exactly what he is doing. We then cut the hole in the floor after planning the particulars of the seat. Of course we had to do some minor re-framing in the basement, but no big deal. We made some raised panels and raised panel doors, and then built the seat to connect the two cabinets.

The last step was to wait until the cabinets and all of the layers of trim had been painted and cleaned up, before installing the hardware.  We were like a couple of little kids waiting ’til mom and dad got their cups of coffee before we could rocket down the stairs to see if Santa came. Finally, the day came. And what a memorable day it was. We had BOTH gotten Red Rider BB guns!!! The only caveat: He gets to keep his Red Rider, while mine simply morphed into a memory and a goal. I think the greatest part, though, is listening to him explain how this project has changed the way they use the home. It seems that the library has lost it’s use as a media center and now serves as a cozy retreat to read by the fire. How can you beat that?

 

By John Bradshaw

Tackle Custom Interior Trim Carpentry in the Winter or Summer?

Our clients have been asking regularly about whether we also do interior work. This tells me it’s time to write a blog post about interior trim work to provide a small sampling of what we can do.

This is an example of woodworking with poplar we did several years ago, during the winter. It has stayed tight with no cracking or bulging. No need to keep caulking and repainting. The “white” lines you see on the crown molding joints are glare from the camera flash.

We’re passionate about all carpentry. To date, our blog posts have been entirely about exterior projects because we feel that sealing water out of the building is job #1. So, when you no longer have water vulnerability, well heck yes we should talk about your interior wish list.

If you’re thinking about moving forward on a custom trim carpentry project, displaying an exquisite vision that showcases magnificently honed carpentry skills is likely one of your goals. That makes perfect sense. And if we’re going to bring your vision to fruition, we’ll want to ensure that it looks and functions flawlessly for a long time to come.

That brings me to the part where we talk about what conditions are ideal for an enduring and beautiful product. First, let’s get the wood species out of the way. If you want a stained product, then choose the species you like. If you want a painted product, then we’ll be selecting poplar to work with, along with cabinet grade plywood and possibly other accessory products. We choose poplar because of it’s availability and affordability. More importantly, we choose poplar because of it’s stability, strength, and straight and smooth grain. Commercially available poplar is not ever suitable for exterior projects in New England though, it turns black and rots easily. But, it’s phenomenal for interior painted woodworking.

Next, wood is hygroscopic, it absorbs or desorbs moisture in effort to reach equilibrium with the relatively humidity. If your home does not have humidity controls here in New England, then we need to understand what the wood is going to do in the future, in response to the relative humidity changes of it’s environment (the home). Barring humidity controls, wood expands as relative humidity rises in the summer, and shrinks when relative humidity drops in the winter. Don’t think that you can fight the “hydraulics” of it, you can’t. You could slow the absorption or desorption by sealing all sides before installing, but this only slows the process. Alright, that’s enough of the technical mumbo jumbo for now…I’m giving myself a headache. Most importantly, proceed with your trim project when the wood’s moisture content and humidity conditions are ideal.

So, as far as ideal conditions, do we want to be building these things during the winter or the summer? Long story short, winter…conscientiously. The wood has already shrunk, in large part, and will not be continuing to shrink. Therefore, you cut, glue, nail and paint the trim during the winter; then, it’s only going to get tighter in the summer. This can be terrific, unless overdone. The wider the boards are, the more they will shrink or expand. If you have boards that are too wide and too dry, they will buckle or cause other components to buckle when they expand in the summer.

Look at this photo. I believe that this trim was installed during the moist summer months, shrank during the dry winter months and exposed a gap at the mitered joint. The gap was filled with caulking and repainted during the winter months when the wood was still contracted. Then, the wood expanded again during the summer months, squeezing the caulking back out of the joint.

How can we help this joint at this point? I don’t know, Bobby-Jo. I suppose I would probably use a better grade of adhesive caulking that stays pliable. I would apply it during the fall, maybe October when the drying has begun. Essentially, shoot for the halfway point between it’s max expansion and max contraction. Then, paint it. You could expect it to be squeezed during the wet summer, but hopefully just form a slight bulge in the paint, and then subside again in the winter, while remaining bonded. The key here is to not use a hard, unflexible product. This would pop out when squeezed during the wet summer months, every time. Hmmm. It’s October now. I think I’ll ask this customer if I may try this experiment and monitor and report back after several changes of seasons.

To wrap it all up, for the sake of your project, please choose to do your custom interior woodworking project in the winter, to ensure tight joinery all year round. For the sake of your wallet also, you’ll want to tackle this during the winter. Why? Well, you may have an opportunity to save a little bit of dough by offering a New England craftsman an interior project to keep him or herself warm during the bitter winter cold. Most elite craftsman are in a minority these days, keeping them in demand year round, but you may have just enough luck to find one looking to fill a winter time slot. Cheers to moving forward with your vision!

 

By John Bradshaw

 

Alternative Paint Prep for Lead Paint

We recently set up in South Berwick to paint 2 sides of this beautiful Queen Anne Victorian that we handle all of the maintenance and improvements for. Painting is not typically what we are called upon to do, but we can certainly provide a quality job.

The best thing to do, of course would be to scrape or grind the paint off down to bare wood. This is cost prohibitive, in this case.

This home/insurance agency is easily 100 years old, and has been very well maintained. It receives very regular exterior paint jobs, so there need not be tons of scraping. This is good news, because for the safety of all, the EPA has begun to enforce very stringent lead paint removal guidelines. Essentially, projects with a lead paint affected area greater than 3′ x 2′ are to be turned into a hazardous waste removal project. I know because we are a Lead Paint certified firm with the EPA.

This has a catastrophic impact on time and budget, but is sometimes unavoidable. The point I’m trying to make, is that if you can accomplish your goals, whatever they may be, in a manner that avoids turning the project into a “The Boy in the Plastic Bubble” type of jobsite, the sometimes stressful remodeling experience may be a bit less painful.

This is an example of a different means to the same end.

This blog post was an afterthought. Therefore, this pic is after applying the Geocel 2310 brushable sealant to it.

Our clients’ goal: To get an affordable coat of paint on the home in order to beautify and protect, for long term results. This is entirely plausible because the home has been maintained with vigilance. It receives semi-constant painting, thus never getting to the point where it needs a paint overhaul.

There are, however, some areas that could use some sort of extra tlc. This built-in bench is one such area. Can we get a durable paint job without turning this into Area 51? Can we do this even considering the alligator skin type of scaling that’s going on now? Yes, of course we can do this.

There’s a product by Geocel called 2310 Brushable Sealant. If you ask the manager, Pat, at Ricci Lumber, he’s been carrying it for 35 years. I haven’t nagged him to verify this for authenticity or exaggeration, but it’s certainly not a newfangled, untested product.

After removing any visibly loose and unbonded paint, the application of the 2310 product is this: You lay it oooonnnn. Now, I don’t mean that you lay it oooonnnn like bringing your best girl home from dinner at the 99′s, turn off all the lights but one, feel around until you bump into the ipod, and turn on a little Barry White… type of lay it oooonnnn. No, no, no. I’m talking you just brought your lady home from a catered picnic on the beach at dusk. You slip into the living room, snap your fingers and the lights going out seem to simultaneously ignite flaming candles at opposite ends of the room. A death glare is flashed, and before you even focus your Jedi mind tricks on the ipod, Barry White is smoothing himself out all over your living room… type of lay it oooonnnn.

This is the final product…and, of course, we still need to paint the decking underneath.

Buuuuhhhht, I digress. What I’m trying to say here is that this isn’t the type of thing you want to rush through. I don’t want to be doing just a little skim coat. I want to lay it on. This product is so goopy that when you apply it properly, it is rather self-leveling. It also has amazing adhesion and flexibility properties. You don’t want to “lay it on” too thick, however. We’re not pouring a bartop here. When you put just enough of it on, it will fill all those alligator cracks and bond the surface. It is not going to look like a brand new bench, but that wouldn’t fit the character of this home anyway. The disclaimer here is that the “self-leveling” and “filling all those alligator cracks” happens while it is wet and not yet fully cured. Once it is fully cured, it has leveled off some of those things, but not nearly as much as what it would seem when wet. That’s ok, though. The main objective is to bond all of the cracked paint so the new coat won’t be a waste of money.

There is another product available that performs the same job of binding the paint. It’s available at the best paint store on the planet: Central Paint in Dover, NH. It’s called “Trim Magic” by a company called XIM. It’s much easier to spread, especially on a larger surface.

Now you see why I’m called “The Michael Jordan of Painting,” and it’s not because I want you to throw me the brush with the game on the line!

I hope that the introduction of of these 2 new products into your toolbox will help you tackle some painting projects to help protect your charming New England home. Don’t forget to follow all of the EPA guidelines when working with lead paint, to protect yourself and others. Also, always wear your safety glasses, don’t forget the hearing protection, brush your teeth after meals, and put on a clean pair of underwear. By the way, why do we say “pair” of underwear?

 

By John Bradshaw

 

 

 

 

Seeing Red

As you look at the roof, the right portion has been pressure washed already, but the right portion not. You can also see that the butt edges of the shakes that have already been washed will need a quick zip over them with the stiff bristle brush. We don’t want to be too aggressive spraying up at these butt edges. Also notice there are a few small shingles under the bottom of the skylight flashing that we’ll have to re-nail. Plan on a little bit of that.

I was recently contracted by a long time homeowner in Newcastle, NH to go through the exterior of his home and look for problems and areas needing attention in anticipation of putting the home on the market in the spring time. He only spent a moment with me, just long enough to mention that he wished he could get the cedar roof replaced for less than $30,000. Then, he left me to evaluate the home and report back.

This assignment threatens me with an anxiety attack every time (fortunately, I’m not prone to anxiety attacks). I never want to tell clients that they have unexpected problems. This home happens to be just a touch over twenty years old, not an era renowned for fine craftsmanship.

Good news: Nothing more than a handful of rotten trimboards, seal the chimney, clean the moss and lichen build-up off the roof, and we’re home-free. I delight in reporting that the home was very well built.

So, we took care of the rotten trim, sealed the massive chimney, and treated the moss build-up with ‘Wet and Forget’. The problem was that the moss build-up was so entrenched that I estimated that it would not just wash away over time after this treatment.

The homeowner was really concerned about the roof, and rightly so. I eased his concerns a bit by stating that the cedar roof is actually in great shape and has another decade of life ahead. Buh-hut, I also had to offer that roofs, windows, and heating systems are the 3 big ticket items that either turn away prospective buyers or take $ out of the seller’s pocket. He agreed 100% and asked what I could do about it. “Well, we could pressure wash the roof. It would tear off the old and dead skin cells, so to speak, and reveal the beauty underneath. Let’s exfoliate your shingles!” The reason we could pressure wash his shingles is because they are California- Hand – Splits. They’re about twice as thick- and irregularly shaped- as regular cedar shingles. He jumped on board, and then one-upped me, “Then, we could spray the ‘Wet and Forget’ on the roof to prevent future build-up.”

Sounds enough like a winning plan, now we just have to execute. When wet, the roof is like a ‘Slip and Slide’. We would have to use roofing harnesses and walk it with the pressure washing wand to clean it. We started a pool to see how many times I would slip and eat cedar shingles on day 1. Only twice, and they weren’t half bad. It was actually pretty rewarding to turn a client’s old roof into a new roof. But, it was mind-numbing work.  Not that the work I do is rocket science, but every now and then it’s nice to have a non-cerebral day. I only wish I had chosen a better last song. The last song I listened to in the truck was Def Leppard, now stuck in my head like the guy in the x-ray that didn’t see the javelin coming.

This back side of the garage roof took me about 5 hours to wash. This is after drying.

On day 1, it took me 5 hours to pressure wash a section of roof measuring approximately 30 feet wide by 16 feet up. It took an additional hour and a half to spray it with the “Wet and Forget” to keep moss and lichens from building up again. Remember to test out which tip to use with the sprayer so you don’t tear apart the soft cedar, and try not to spray uphill too much, this could cause leaks, obviously. Also, keep in mind that cedar turns gray in the sun, no matter what. So if you’re thinking it’s going to look like brandy spankin’ new forever, you may want to rethink that.

This is the front side of the garage after washing. We usually ask clients to at least shut their car doors before pressure washing above.

If you’re thinking about doing a project like this, please remember that a bit of pre-planning can go a long way. Don’t let Def Leppard pour sugar on you all day long! Enjoy.

 

By John Bradshaw

Must Read Safety Warning Regarding CFL’s

This was emailed to me, and I am not a paranoid type of person, but I thought that it warrants reading, at a minimum. It does contain graphic images. Please click on this fire training pdf and stay safe. I’ll continue using CFL’s, but we’ll have to be safer as a family.

Salisbury_Fire_Dept_Training_Newsletter_-_April_2012(3)

 

By John Bradshaw

A Great Trick Learned from a Master

When I was a younger apprentice and journeyman carpenter, I always tried to work for the finest craftsmen I could, even when it meant leaving money on the table. I’m fortunate to have had 3 years of learning from one of the best carpenters I’ve seen, Brian Leavitt. This simple trick is straight from him.

Repairing cedar shakes can be a little tricky and time consuming. They are woven and overlapped and it can be a real chore to dissect them in a manner so as to be able to weave new ones back in properly. I’m not going to get into all of the particulars for cedar shake repairs, just offer a tip.

Once upon a time I was working under the tutelage of Brian and weaving cedar shakes back together on a wall right at eye level on a deck that’s used for lots of entertaining. Brian said, “Do you know how to slip a new shake in under an existing one and nail it so you don’t see nails on the face of it?”

“No, I don’t.” And as a matter of fact, I thought he was messing with me (I am super gullable). How could this be? Sliding a new shake in underneath the course directly above it and no face nails? No way.

Photo #1- This is the new shake to be installed. I have access to nail the left side of the shake at this point, but can still illustrate the trick for hiding nails with the left side of this shake.

Photo #2

Yes way. As in Photo #2, you’ll start by holding the new shake about a quarter of an inch lower than the rest of the same course of shakes you are trying to continue. Next, use some small tool like the mini pry-bar I used to hold out the existing shake that sits over the face of the new one to be nailed. Then, start your stainless siding nail up at a slight angle and as far up under the existing shake as you can. Drive the nail flush with the face of the shake. Use a nail set to help if needed.

When you finish the steps illustrated in photo #2, you’ll have what looks like photo #3. From here, all you have to do is hold a block of wood to the bottom edge of the new shake and tap it up with your hammer until the shake sits in line with the rest of the course as in photo #4.

Photo #3

Photo #4

 

 

 

 

 

 

You are now ready to abandon the old method of face nailing repaired cedar shakes, at least in high visibility spots. There are a couple of other things to take note of, though. First, this repair will be 100% complete when the cedar shakes are pressure washed to all match and hide the fact that any work was ever done. Second, the understanding of how to look at a cedar shake and determine which is the face and which face to nail to the wall is a dying, yet simple art that you should know.

Photo #5- Left face should be facing out.

In photo #5 the camera is looking down the butt edge of a shake. As seen here, the cup faces to the right. That means that the two edges of the piece of wood already curl to the right side forming a “cup”. We always install shakes so that the cup faces the wall. So from this view, the face on the right will face the wall. This is in anticipation of future wood movement. When wood gets wet and dries out, it cups to the side that it dries to. That means that a cedar shake’s 2 edges will turn away from the wall and cup toward the sun. If the shake was installed so that the cup was already facing that way, then this new movement will have such an impact on the shake that it will very likely split and cause the shake above it to pull away and move and just start it’s decline. This is very easy to avoid with just a fraction of a second of extra effort to look at the shake before installing it. You may now proceed well armed for battle, thanks to Brian.

 

By John Bradshaw

 

The Most Common Roof Error I See

Photo #1- This home in Portsmouth features an outside corner to the immediate left of the trash barrel that is exactly the scenario most likely to be done wrong. The inside corner that’s just a touch up the roofline is also a common culprit.

Photo #2- If you click on this image to enlarge it, you will see there is a gap between the copper step flashing going up the roof line and the horizontal copper apron flashing.

You may have learned by now that I’ve never been known for brevity. This blog post, however, should buck that trend a little bit. Why? Simple, because this common error is very easy to identify and resolve. So easy, in fact, that it doesn’t make much sense why these things are almost never done properly in the first place.

The scenario is this: Any time an out side wall corner or an inside wall corner comes down to intersect with a roof plane, assume it’s not flashed properly. Now, this does not mean that it leaks, necessarily. It may not leak due to a proper insurance layer of ice and water shield underneath the shingles. Conversely, the lack of water signs inside the corresponding portion of the home does not mean that it is not leaking. Wood, especially real wood as opposed to “particle board”, has the ability to absorb water, and then dry out. This can happen over and over again, as long as it can dry out. Or, The initial plywood and framing components that are coming in contact with the water that is infiltrating are sometimes not able to properly dry out, and thus rot. The components that lay below these “first absorbers” will get wet, but not necessarily beyond their saturation point. If the lower levels of wood are absorbing the water without exceeding their saturation point, the water may never make it to the drywall layer to display to the homeowner that damage is being done. This explains how a home can be taking on water without showing signs of it on the drywall, for instance.

Photo #3- Just a simple piece of lead flashing to transition between the planes.

What is the error at these corner/roof intersections that is causing these problems? Well, the lack of incorporating nice, wonderful, beautiful, malleable lead flashing into the mix. Am I in love with lead? Maybe just a trifle, but hey, what’s not to love? Standard aluminum step flashing runs up the abutting cheek wall that the roof shingles butt into. And aluminum can sometimes also be used to flash the siding down over the roofing at those wall planes that run parallel with the shingles. But what aluminum cannot ever do is to turn that corner seamlessly. Lead, however, has the ability to hit all these multiple planes seamlessly. Mmmmmmmmm.

Photo #4- This is a home in Hampton. Look how easy this stuff is to spot, yet home inspectors rarely pick up on it, even though this home has stained drywall in the garage underneath.

Photo #5- See the close-up of the hole there. Simple to identify a lack of lead.

It’s comical the things that I sometimes see. I will pull apart these layers to correct and end up seeing layer after layer after layer after layer of aluminum flashing. Each one torn right at the crux of the corner, every time. So, the predecessor’s solution for recognizing that the flashing was tearing: Keep throwing more layers at it. Awesome.

These are flaws that are easy to identify, simple to fix yourself if you’re comfortable on a roof, or inexpensive (unless there is widespread rot) to hire a professional to solve. It may only cost $200- $300 to un-weave some shingles, remove a corner board, install some lead flashing, install a new corner board, and weave the shingles back in. The most difficult challenge you may face might be finding the professional that knows how and when to incorporate lead flashing. Here’s a catchy little reminder when vetting a repair contractor: Find someone with a passion for flashin’. No. I won’t be quitting my day job any time soon.

I must leave you with one last tidbit of information. I mentioned that aluminum can usually be a good flashing choice for the planes that don’t need to wrap around a corner. When it’s not a suitable choice is when there is copper in the vicinity. Copper is ranked higher on the Galvanic Scale of Nobility and blah, blah, blah. Anyway, copper and water runoff from copper interact with aluminum and cause the aluminum to rot right out. That’s also why aluminum is no longer acceptable to use as a deck flashing, because pressure treated lumber is treated with copper. Now you’re prepared to go tackle this one, safely of course.

 

 

By John Bradshaw

 

 

Let’s Play Hide the Plywood

 

This is from my initial assessment.

In photo #2- Do you see the same problem I see?

I was called to a home in Rochester (actually I was emailed to visit this home)to examine recently revealed rot and offer solutions.This home has a second story roof overhang that is almost four feet deep. The homeowner started to find some problems when he ripped up the cement pad that was underneath the entire overhang. The columns had entirely rotted at the bottoms – the home was built before pressure treated wood- so we replaced them. We also replaced all of the fascias with pvc trim and installed seamless gutters and leafguards to manage the water. This proactive homeowner also found some soft and punky plywood after removing some of the siding, himself, to see what was going on.

In photo #2 you’ll see that the major problem I identified was the lack of elevation between the finish grade under the overhang and the wood framing, plywood, and siding. The current building code calls for a minimum of 8″ of exposed masonry between finish grade and framing and plywood. This is to protect the home from water damage and insect damage. With the extra wide roof overhang, there is little threat from water, but major threat from insects. The reason there was no prior insect damage was because the concrete pad was poured right up to the siding. When you’ve seen the devastating damage an underground colony of termites can silently wreak on the framing of a home, you evaluate these situations from a different angle.

In this drawing that I scanned and included with my original work proposal you’ll see 2 things: First, the solution that I’ve been using for a few years now to solve this type of problem; and second, my pre-K art skills not so proudly on display! The foam gasket and the bead of caulking work together to try to form an airtight seal to keep the bugs out. Additionally, we’re wrapping the bottom edge of the plywood with ice and water shield in order to hide the plywood from the insects. I’m no entymologist, but I assume that insects will be far less likely to begin nibbling away at petroleum based products like ice and water shield. The foam gasket must be buried under the ice and water shield. I’ve seen carpenter ants eat away an entire wall’s worth of 1/2″ foam board that lay directly under the siding. The only evidence remaining to prove that it ever existed was the foil facing.

Photo #3- We could stand to add some insulation, since the wall was opened up anyhow.

Photo #4- Insulation beefed up and ready to continue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo #5

In photo #5, we applied the 7/16″ x 1″ wide foam gasket to the bottom edge of the back side of the plywood. We then began to wrap the bottom edge in ice and water shield. What I did was to gently pre-slice the paper on the back side of the ice and water shield so that I could stick it to the back of the ply and to the foam, but leave the protective paper on the part that will wrap up the front face of the ply.

In photo #6 you’ll see the back edge of the ply wrapped with ice and water shield up and over the foam gasket.

Photo #7

In photo # 7 this is the installation of said plywood panels. Notice I ran the ice and water shield past the first piece of ply, so that I could have good overlapping with the next piece. The process calls for smearing the bottom edge of the ply into a thick bead of high grade caulking. In this case, the local lumberyard didn’t carry Lexel brand caulking (in my opinion the most bad posterior caulking available), so that means 2 things: First, we used Phenoseal translucent caulking (goes on white and dries translucent); second, Ricci Lumber needs to think about opening a satellite location in Rochester, or I need to plan ahead and schedule for them to deliver my sundries along with the lumber order next time. Phenoseal is also amazing, it has my 110% confidence.

Photo #8

 

In photo # 8, note that it’s important to nail the bottom edge of the ply approximately every 6″. Also, remember to set the depth of the nail gun so that the nails don’t just blow 1/2 way through the plywood.

 

By John Bradshaw

Photo #9- Peel off the remaining paper and stick the ice and water shield to the face.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo #10- Finish the prep with more ice and water shield tucked all the way underneath components that are directly above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo #11- Pvc trimboard installation with hidden fasteners. We also installed proper flashing above the trimboard and replaced siding above that. All that’s left now is touch up paint.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finished product from the road. The homeowner can finish his hardscaping now, sorry Rich.

In summary, when repairing rot in New England, or elsewhere, we must evaluate whether standard operating procedure will suffice. In this case, just nailing up plywood would handle the repair, but not protect the home for the long term. Invest the extra effort to think about and evaluate what forces will be working against the project in the future. Then, find or create the solution that will stand against these forces. It’s an investment you will not regret.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Common Rot Repairs Using PVC Trim Boards

While having the pleasure of working in a beautiful neighborhood in Newcastle, NH recently, I was approached, on separate occasions, by 2 friendly neighbors. Both of these gentlemen were astute “Do -It- Yourselfers” in want of information. All of the homes in the neighborhood were built about 20 – 25 years ago and are beginning to have some of the same issues. They’ve got roofs that are starting to show minor problems, roof boots that have dried out and cracked, windows that have exceeded their serviceable life, and generalized exterior rot. Both neighbors seemed to want to see how we handle some of these things, and determine for themselves whether there is anything of value they might be able to take from it.

Because I want this blog and this website to be a resource, I figure I might as well share my approach to some of these things that people seem interested in learning about. In this case,

This is the bottom trim molding before.

the front door threshold had been replaced at some point with a pine threshold. It rotted at the corners, where the storm door side tracks sit on top of it. Also, the door surround had been patched with new pine in places, and it too was in need of attention. Originally, I didn’t think about writing a blog for this project, so the beginning pictures could have been better.

 

 

 

In this third picture, you’ll see the short section of pine that was used for a previous patch. The predecessor chose clear pine instead of primed finger jointed. Very conscientious. He/she also cut an angle at the top of the piece which created what we call a scarf joint, or some would call a weather cut. This is important. The patch had also been primed on all sides, including the scarf joint at the top. This is even more important when using wood.

But the patch, beginning at the top right corner, had begun it’s rapid descent down the drain anyhow. How come? Well briefly, (I’ll save the real meat and potatoes of this one for another blog post) because pine available today for exterior projects is complete garbage. Be as conscientious as you want, it’s still going to fail prematurely, everytime.

Step one: Drive screw with special driver (no pre-drilling).

So,I chose to replace these vulnerable components with pvc board and trim. Nothing comes without it’s pricetag, however. And these products have their pricey tag.

Additionally, they must be used with the utmost care and attention to detail, or suffer the wrath of buyer’s remorse.

The brand I use is Azek. A 1 x 12

Step two: Set pvc plug.

comes 18′ long and can shrink as much as 3/4″ lengthwise depending on ambient temperature. Typical wood boards shrink and expand with changes in

moisture, and in greatest fluctuation across their width (the 5-1/2″ width for a 1 x 6). Pvc boards shrink and expand with thermal changes, and in greatest fluctuation along their length (18′ for a typical board that is uncut). Therefore it can be entirely expected that if you install an 18′ 1 x 12 that butts into 2 perpendicular wood surfaces on an 80 degree day in the sun, and then come back to visit (this is where being a remodeling carpenter with repeat customers becomes priceless) during November on a

Final step: Gently tap flush with hammer.

40 degree day, you will probably see a gap at each end approaching 3/8 of an inch!!!!

But, with a whole bunch of awesomeness (I’m actually dusting off the tops of my shoulders while typing) these problems can be averted. I’ve built a deck, during the summer, with 1 x 8 trimboards totaling 39 feet joined together. I went back for another stage of construction during the winter, and none of the joints had opened a whisker.

I was very reluctant to use the super-spectacular new virtually invisible fastening method for these products, but with a bit of coaching from some of the younger guys that were more open to these things, I fell head over heels. The screws are made by Cortex. You just sink ‘em deep with no pre-drilling, and then tap in a pvc plug with your hammer. Boom! Nothing ever happened here. Stainless finish nails can sheer off under the right expansion and contraction conditions.

The glue we use for pvc joinery.

What about glue? We should use the Azek brand glue that Azek specifies, right? Wrong-o! This pvc is cellular pvc, similar to being blown up with air like a marshmallow. It’s not dense like pvc pipe. So, Azek specifies a light body pvc cement because it will not “bite into” their trim board too much and thus compromise it, according to them. I’ve seen this proprietary glue fail time after time  (could I please get Cyndi Lauper out of my head now!). I use a medium body pvc cement, preferably in a squeeze tube to fit neatly in my tool pouch. It “bites into” the trim board enough to hold the joint through the changes in seasons. This allows me to create exterior trimwork that water will never have the opportunity to infiltrate. It can join layers of trim on adjacent planes and at perpendicular angles. A trim product that doesn’t absorb water and adhesives and techniques that ensure tight joinery for years to come. I mean, what’s next? Are they gonna come out with commercial free radio stations or something?

Joining the upper wood with the new, lower pvc. Notice the Gorilla glue squeeze out.

The next thing to think about, with regards to this repair project, is joining the new pvc trim patch to the existing wood trim layers. I chose to save the upper portions of the wood trim that weren’t compromised. they will be out of the snow and rain, and I know we can elevate our game to keep water out of these joints. First, the lower product that would be catching all the water will be pvc. Second, we will use relatively small pieces for these patches so that the percentages that they will shrink with thermal changes will have a miniscule practical effect. Third, when we bond them to the wood we will use the best adhesive ever for this application…next time. I loathe making mistakes, and both times I’ve had a hard time reconciling it (laugh with me). However, I chose Gorilla brand polyurethane glue for this particular application, and then second guessed myself. To satisfy the second guessing, I did a test joint with a piece of wood joining to a piece of pvc trim. The next day it was no good. The glue didn’t bite into the pvc and  I was able to force the joint apart with some effort. One of the reasons that I chose this glue, however, was because of it’s expansive properties. The other was because of it’s insane ability to bond to wood. Boil it down, and the glue I chose did not properly bond the two pieces. It did, however, expand to fill the entire joint 100% and form an unbreakable bond with the upper wood part of the joint. So, the wood end grain is well sealed forever, and the pvc trim board underneath it should not contract beyond a hairline. Lovely.

For the longer pvc trim boards, I made new nose pieces at the top that sit underneath the wood trim (For this whole paragraph, I have no pics…this blog post was an afterthought). I applied a heavy bead of Lexel caulk and then screwed these small pieces into the upper wood trim. I then applied a nice bead of pvc cement to the top butt edge of the long pvc board before butting it into this small pvc trim detail. Because we used the proper fasteners and adhesives, this perpendicular joint will not fail.

It’s alright to use stainless finish nails when using small components. Further, the nails are only going to be carrying the load until the glue sets up in five minutes or so.

The last thing to remember is to account for whether or not your pvc trim is going to be painted. It doesn’t have to be, but machine marks must be eliminated. They leave tiny pits that allow algae and mold to build up in. Raw edges, if unpainted and unsanded, turn almost black with these growths. Finely sand or paint all exposed cut edges. Also, paint doesn’t stick to sharp corners, so ease the outside corners of your work with a piece of sandpaper. Lastly, paint doesn’t stick to shiny pvc trim very well. I know, your painter and paint retailer will contradict me. That’s fine. I’ve been in the position to come back around to a project 6 months later, to see how the paint held up. The right paint, according to the manufacturer, didn’t stick. I now recommend gently scuffing the entire pvc surfaces to be painted to remove the “shine” from the board, beforehand. It is a price to pay, but remember that the new pvc trim will hold paint FAR longer than wood will, due to it’s moisture stability.

Finished product…before being painted to match.

By John Bradshaw

Timeless Solution to Age Old Problem

Know anybody with wooden gutters? Chances are they enjoy talking about the character and beauty of them, but don’t want the conversation to sway towards the

Rye Beach NH contractor

This was from my initial assessment of the home.

maintenance of them. They do have many checkmarks in the “pros” column for the aesthetic appeal, but each “pro” is also offset but a baneful “con”.

I was referred to these particular homeowners in Rye, NH to replace rotten eave trim and porch trim before having their house painted. Upon arrival I asked the homeowner what his wishes were and what his analysis was, since they have owned the home for 26 years. I then applied this perspective and my professional perspective as I walked the exterior of the house, took measurements and

Home repair Rye NH

This was the typical rotten trim we were asked to estimate. Clearly we were going to have to replicate some ornamental brackets.

pictures, and made notations. I returned to discuss my findings and display pictures with the homeowner. I told him that we could certainly replace all of the rotten trimwork, replicate a couple of the decorative cornice brackets, and tighten things up ahead of a paint job. Unfortunately, I also had to gently disclose that it seemed clear that the wooden gutters were causing the rot all around the home, and it was likely to continue. I asked what his thoughts were about this and he

Wood gutter repair

It can’t be good when my chubby finger can fit into the joint.

remarked, “I’ve resigned myself to the fact that rot is just going to continue to be a problem.” These particular homeowners are very intelligent and do an outstanding job trying to maintain the integrity of the home. I feel as though this response was a result of decades of conditioning by previous contractors stating exactly that. I also had to gently state that I didn’t share this same viewpoint with regards to this specific example, and that after providing a detailed proposal for replacing the rotten wood trim, I would also research to find a winning solution for conquering the age old wooden gutter problem.

By looking at these pictures, you can see that the gutters are placed over the fascia board, but starting to pull away. This creates a wonderful alternative for water seeking to hide. All of the joints in the gutters have separated like Heidi Klum and Seal, no chance of getting back together.

Wood gutter repair Rye, NH

Water definitely should not be allowed behind this gutter.

Compounding the problems greatly, one of my predecessors decided to resolve the issue of gutters pulling away by supporting them with another layer of wood trim applied to the fascia underneath the gutter, and then sealed it together with caulking and paint. While this looked terrific from the ground, it didn’t work out so well from a “water management” perspective. All of the moisture that ran behind the gutter was sealed in with no place to go. Of course it rotted the trimwork, layer by layer. If all this wasn’t bad enough, some of the original downspouts were eliminated and patched over for aesthetic reasons. Fine, except that the gutter still pitched in that direction and now the water would sit there until it evaporated. Another detail requiring attention was where the gutter sections butted into the exterior walls and siding. There was no endcap sealed on to the butt end of the gutter, nothing to protect the wall from this moisture. I showed the homeowner all of these pics and more, so he could see why I felt it deserved attention.

Finding the winning solution wasn’t so easy. I spent 2 full days talking with other building professionals, talking to the local suppliers of gutter and roofing products, in professional chatrooms, and spending countless hours poring through Google search results. The end result: There was no ready made solution. I was going to have to create one. We could have copper manufactured and soldered to be seamless in place, for over $8,000. Or we could use white rubber roofing and lead for ½ the price.

In order for the gutter to hold the water and direct it properly into the downspouts, we had to ensure that the white rubber roofing liner would be tucked all the way up under the roof-line. Then, we had to find a way to seal the rubber roofing to the top edge of

Wood gutter repair

Time to start putting things back together.

the gutter, where it wouldn’t be seen from the ground. By nailing the lead to the gutter, it gave us a nice, clean, smooth, and impermeable surface to bond the rubber roofing to… for all eternity, ahh, ahh, ahh. But, there was one more critical task we were going to ask the lead to perform. We needed to create a “drip edge” on the outside face of the gutter for overflow water to drip off of, rather than submit to it’s surface tension

Wood gutter lining Rye, NH

Installing the rubber membrane under the roof drip edge and sticking to the gutter and the lead at the top edge of the gutter. All edges will need to be sealed with lap sealant engineered for rubber roofing membranes.

and run all the way down the face of the building components. We did this by adding a

Wood gutter liner

The finished product isn’t so glamorous up close, but looks great from the ground.

spacer to the top outer edge of the gutter and then hanging the lead slightly lower than it. We also added 3 new downspouts where the demand required.

I’m 100% certain that Meticulous Remodeling had not just boldly gone where no man has gone before, but proud of our extra effort and craftsmanship, nonetheless.

 

By John Bradshaw

Wood trim repair Rye Beach, NH

Instead of using solid cedar which would crack and split, we used weatherproof glue to join cedar boards for a more stable product.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Home repair Rye, NH

This is the finish painted product as seen from the ground. You may notice the unpainted lead at the top edge. Also, the bracket on the left is a new one.