Builder: A Changing Definition

I don’t care for the term “builder” anymore. I recognize that my perspective on this may be miles away from where the public is at. The term brings me such a negative feeling, now, largely because today’s “builders” are building half a million dollar homes that can’t keep water out for a full ten years. And maybe it’s because I’ll talk to my windows dealer or kitchen cabinetry dealer to find out which options are available to meet a client’s needs and they will start by offering the “builder” grade products at the bottom of the crap heap. Sorry, but not really, because it’s true.

It wasn’t always this way. A builder used to be a revered craftsman. As a matter of fact, they would absolutely HAVE to build quality homes. Why? Because a builder didn’t have these new “super materials” to hide behind. A builder used to have to know how to keep water moving out over the face of the roofing and siding. Super materials are things like ice and water shield that can seal out all sorts of moisture, when properly incorporated. Ice and water shield is not entirely new, having been on the market for probably thirty something years. The thing is, though, that a layer of ice and water shield should never, ever be anything more than a magnificent insurance layer. Water should really never touch it, but always be directed out over the face of the shingles, or siding, etc..

And if one of the builder’s homes did leak, he was in for it. It would be a big deal because technology and a diverse array of power tools were not there to get him through it quickly. Building and repairing were much more labor intensive. And without ice and water shield to slow the water down, the leak would rear it’s ugly head before the one year anniversary. There would be no insurance company taking the hit, just the builder. These painful lessons are sometimes the greatest for personal growth.

That was how it used to be. Then, what happened to those good old days? Well, I believe that the building boom of the 80′s featured a perfect storm of crap. People had been laid off from their jobs due to a recession. Eventually, the real estate and building markets came roaring back with a vengeance. The big kingmaker this time around was the proliferation of building technologies. We now had all sorts of power saws and nail guns for framing, siding, roofing, and finish work, and ice and water shield to cover one’s hiney on the roof. The net result was that any old Joe was now either a carpenter or a builder.

I remember being just a puppy in the trade in the 90′s. Having a classical education from a 3rd generation, old school German carpenter, even a puppy like me could pick out some of these 80′s garbage houses from the good ones.

Alright, where does that leave us today? Today, being a “carpenter” or a “builder” is well within the reach of anybody that believes it can be bought in a big box store. “Yup, I just got me a new nail gun, a couple of saws, a new truck, a contractor’s insurance policy for $700 and now I’m a contractor.” Well lucky duck! And as far as being a “builder,” this term lost all prominence with the association of “builder grade” product lines. I’ve been hired time and time again to solve rot and water infiltration problems at the personal homes of “builders.”  Their own homes aren’t lasting more than ten years before being stricken with rot.

Nowadays, you rarely see a builder saving some select hardwood trees on the lot for either a little shade or character for the home. Builders don’t bother to learn about how to position the home in relation to the sun, how to orient the interior layout to maximize the sun (like having a sun filled kitchen or breakfast nook in the morning to get your day started), or how to properly incorporate soffit overhangs to allow for solar heat gain from the low winter sun, but still provide protection from the higher summer sun.

A builder, these days, often means nothing more than a guy or a gal with a checkbook, a vision, determination, and a lack of respect for the craft. They buy the lots, pick a home plan from a generic book, and hire the subcontractors and “carpenters” to build it. How do they hire these tradespeople? Well, I suppose if I didn’t know there was any difference I might hire according to the bottom line.

Unfortunately, the craft of carpentry is being dumbed down as well. When I was first learning the trade, a carpenter had to know how to use surveyor’s tools to layout and position the concrete forms for the foundation. He would then frame, roof, and side the building. Next, it was time to move indoors for insulating, followed by interior trim work and finally building his own kitchen cabinetry in place. Now, guys and gals need only know four skill sets: Framing, roofing, siding, and interior finish and cabinet hanging. That would be absolutely wonderful if the guys and gals calling themselves “carpenters” actually had training and experience in these four areas. Unfortunately, we’re becoming an instant gratification nation. Nobody’s interested in paying their dues. If you want to be a carpenter, just buy a nail gun, watch a YouTube video, and just as if a magic wand had been waved over your head…Boom! You’re a “carpenter!”

Although there’s a vast library of material to draw from, there’s no need to get into tons of examples to back any of this up. Indeed, most people that have been homeowners more than five years have some first or second hand knowledge of this.

Are there “builders” out there, today, that are REAL craftsmen and women? Absolutely. Finding them will be a whole other issue; they are such a dying breed. The best advice I can give would be to listen to the counsel of your friends and family. Remember, however, that your friends and family may not be in the best position to judge the competency of a builder. You see, just about every project sparkles the same for the first few years. It’s usually after the first five years that problems will begin to surface. So, those friends and family members that have been using a builder long term, well their endorsement should carry more weight. Most importantly, have patience and speak with long time clients to find out how their homes have performed. and how the builder has responded to any issues arising.

 

By John Bradshaw

 

Plywood ‘vs OSB (Waferboard)

Sometimes choosing the building materials that suit us is a difficult decision. In the case of plywood ‘vs OSB, it’s a no brainer.

The home is a system, exterior claddings, framing and insulation, and interior claddings that all interact with each other on some level. The most important variables playing into this equation are: Air movement into and out of the building envelope (factoring heavily into heat loss), vapor transmission to and from the building envelope, and strength.

Air movement- how drafty your home will be- is the same for either plywood or OSB, theoretically speaking. The most important thing to remember is to properly nail the plywood on the outside walls and roof. That means extra nails at all edges, and adjusting the depth setting on the framing gun from super deep setting for framing, down to relatively shallow for shooting ply or OSB. Otherwise, your nails will blow most of the way through it and you’ve lost strength.

Speaking of strength, there is a difference between OSB and plywood. I’m no engineer, so let me relay my personal experience. I was fresh out of high school in the early 90′s and learning about framing houses on the coasts of Beverly and Marblehead, Massachusetts. We often had to build to withstand hurricane force winds, incorporating shear walls to resist lateral wind pressure. When we built the walls laying down, we had one of two choices for bracing it against the wind (no complaints about Bob Seger stuck in my head right now). We could use plywood and lay the sheets across the studs and stagger the joints every four feet in each successive course of real plywood and the stength of the plywood would brace the wall; or, we could cut diagonal bracing into the wall studs from top plate to bottom plate before sheathing with cheap-o OSB. Hopefully this information gives some perspective as to strength.

Next is vapor transmission. This is slightly more involved. Wood can absorb moisture just fine and, when allowed to properly dry out, can repeat this cycle indefinitely. It becomes a problem when the wood doesn’t have the opportunity to dry out. Therefore, the drying process is critical.

Your home is built almost entirely out of building components that hold moisture. The amount of moisture that they hold depends on: The types of materials used, the amount of humidity created by inhabitants (about 70% of a home’s humidity is from occupants cooking, showering, watering plants, dog dishes, perspiring, etc.), the relative humidity in the atmosphere, and of course the amount of air flow in and out of the home.

To allow the home to dry out, we must allow for slow vapor transmission through the building materials. This is why we should never use a vapor barrier on the warm side of a wall system. We don’t want to block all vapor diffusion. This would cause the vapor to hit that sheet plastic “vapor barrier” and condense, with no where to go. After condensing, the next step would be mold.

 

What we need to incorporate into walls and attic floors are vapor retarders that simply slow down vapor diffusion. We must allow the building and all of it’s components to dry out. So, we don’t use sheet plastic on the inside of the walls. Fine, but what does all this have to do with plywood versus OSB? Well, I was laying down a little building science theory, necessary for understanding the importance when choosing a wall or roof sheathing.

If we want to allow the building to breathe, which is the better choice? OSB is made up of wood wafers and glue, then treated with a film of wax to buy some time for exposure to the elements during construction. OSB has a perm rating (the means of measuring how much vapor will pass through a material) that remains very low and constant. When the relative humidity rises, it continues to allow the same miniscule amount of vapor to pass through it.

Plywood, on the other hand, has a decent perm rating and is able to ride a very nice curve. It is made of real, unpulverized wood layers that are glued together in opposing grain directions with an exterior glue. Because it is real wood, when the relative humidity rises, it’s ability to allow vapor to pass through it rises in kind. It allows the home to dry nicely under normal conditions.

Next, let’s talk about mold. Mold is a fungus. Fungi need food. Wood can be food, especially when sopping wet and beginning to break down. Additionally, when wood is pulverized, a sugar like byproduct is created. This is sugar like to mold. Oh wait. OSB is made up of pulverized wood and glue. The more and more that wood is pulverized down, the more sugary wonderful it is to mold. That’s why mold will very easily grow on the paper facing of drywall in a moist bathroom. OSB is far more susceptible to mold than plywood.

Let’s round this out by talking about the all important bottom line. OSB for wall sheathing can cost less than half of what plywood is going for. Let’s say we’re building a decent sized two story addition requiring 70 sheets of 1/2″ sheathing for walls and roof. At current rates, it would cost $525 for OSB and $1,330 for plywood. Now knowing this building science, who would choose to save the $805 and go with OSB?

Let’s consider two more things: Interior subfloor application over floor framing, and the introduction of red type (roofs) and green type (walls) super waterproof OSB sheathing.

First, the easy one. I always use OSB for interior subfloor applications. For this, we are inside of the building envelope and vapor is not struggling to pass through it. It also is cheaper and flatter for floors, making it a great choice and a green choice.

Finally, let’s discuss the introduction of super waterproof OSB. This is becoming incredibly popular for builders. I will never use it. First, you’re still not allowing the home to dry out properly via vapor diffusion. Second, it doesn’t adhere to the most fundamental of all building principles: Every single building component should be overlapped by the one directly above it in elevation. This utilizes the physics of gravity to keep the home dry and has been successful for centuries.

Then how does this other system work? First, the OSB is coated with some special magic potion to keep water out. Fine, wonderful, remembering that this also means that it keeps vapor in. What about the joints between sheets? Well, this is the kicker. It means that the carpenters must use a special- and expensive- proprietary tape gun to apply the special tape to the seams. That’s where we no longer overlap materials. You see, with plywood or regular OSB sheathing, we apply a rainscreen over the sheathing, such as tar paper or Tyvek, etc.. We overlap this rainscreen, maintaining the most fundamental principle of building. Conversely, the tape that is applied to the special OSB relies entirely on adhering over the surface of the plywood, a non glossy surface.

If you hang out at the lumber yard long enough, you’ll hear other guys asking what to do when their finicky tape gun no longer works properly. They dread shelling out the big bucks for a new one. Yes, these applicators don’t always apply the tape to create a watertight seal. And what if the sheathing has a film of sawdust on it’s face? I don’t know, you tell me. If you pay attention to addition jobsites, builders that are using this new super OSB with the taped seams on a roof with a finished living space underneath are still tarping the roof until they get the shingles on  it. How much confidence do they seem to have in the product they are using on the roof? When roof plywood, on the other hand, is properly covered with ice and water shield and roof underlayment paper such as synthetic tar paper, the building will stay dry during construction every time.

Why would the lumber industry offer a product like this? Because they want to sell to the ever growing demographic of builders that don’t understand how to properly and permanently water proof a building. The lumber industry is dumbing down the products. Yes, we should all write our representatives in congress.

In conclusion, plywood made of real wood is by far the best thing for your exterior walls and roof. It only needs elementary attention to waterproofing details, and will then allow your home to breathe properly. OSB is the best choice for interior flooring substrate.

This material was largely a result of an education from Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D., P.Eng., ASHRAE Fellow. He has been widely renowned as an international building science expert for decades. If you want to learn more about building science or cure insomnia I’m just kidding, some of the writings on the site are actually very entertaining), visit his website at http://www.buildingscience.com.

 

By John Bradshaw

 

 

 

Jobsite Humor

Back around the turn of the milennium, (No, this is not the opening screen scroll type thing at a Star Wars movie), an excavating company was working on digging and backfilling a big cellar hole In Exeter, NH. It was around coffee break time when Ronnie decided he had better not delay any longer. He would spend the first part of his break trekking about a hundred yards to the edge of the River. He sought cover from the couple of saplings and overgrown brush, in order to take care of some business that was going to be a bit more than could be tended to up by the foundation.

The rest of the crew sat on the foundation wall, enjoying a little coffee, light banter, and the view of the river. I’m sure the sight of the procrastinator, that decided to wait until all eyes would be focused in his direction, offered up a nice little conversation piece on a silver platter.

But it would get better. Ronnie crouched, trousers in hand, to clean his soiled jeans the old-fashioned way: By hand in the river. He reached up just high enough to throw his wet trousers over whatever sapling branch seemed sturdy enough. The boys were being treated to quite a show for coffee break that day

Anybody know what comes next? The skibbies needed to be cleaned, of course. What a disturbing treat! That silver platter was really serving up a doozie, but it was about to be crowned with jewels.

Of course the view at the river level didn’t provide the advantage of elevation that the guys- who were now rolling off the masonry with belly laughter- enjoyed from the foundation. Poor, poor Ronnie had know way of seeing around the bend. The UNH women’s crew team was rapidly approaching. They usually practiced about 1/2 a dozen boats at a time, either 7 or 9 kids to a boat, with a coach being chauffeured in a motor boat alongside. And there it was. The guys were in total disbelief that this was actually happening. Not a dry eye in the building at this point!

I know coaches are there to help, but can this coach legally suggest that the kids use bleach to scrub this from their memories, or are they all going to have to endure lifelong counseling?

A special thanks to my father in law, Harvey, for this one. I don’t know what to say, except, “Keep ‘em coming.”

 

By John Bradshaw

An Innovative Custom Interior Carpentry Project…With Video

I am one seriously fortunate guy. Throughout the course of my career, I’ve had the honor of working on some amazing projects. They have ranged the whole spectrum from building custom homes and additions, to jacking an old farm house, to a curved third story deck, to installing an entire showroom worth of high end kitchens and baths, and everything in between. These have all been tremendously rewarding.

But I have to say, the project pictured here, completed several years ago, has been the most fun to date. This is the vision of the homeowner, also a very accomplished woodworker. I got the call from a relative to meet with him to see about helping him clear a hurdle. He had this magnificent vision, and had built and installed the 2 corner cabinets, and hit a bit of a wall. He knew that he wanted to connect the 2 at the top with a soffit and crown molding, connect the 2 at the bottom with a built-in window seat, and the coolest part of all, cut a hole in the floor to allow for a remote controlled telescopic television stand to rise out of the bench seat. He just needed an ounce of additional help to complete this. Count me in! The main reason for wanting the TV to rise out of the window seat- other than the obvious cool factor- was so that the view of the river through the 2 windows behind it would not be obstructed permanently.

We started by formulating a joint game plan to finish the corner cabinets and then move towards tackling the other objectives on the way to reaching the big goal: Hitting that remote button and seeing the flat screen ascend in all it’s glory.

We built the face frames for the cabinets, and he had astutely pre-planned to have the bottom exposed shelf and subsequent nosing line up perfectly with the window sill nosing to tie everything together at that level. It’s funny, he calls himself “Just Ye Olde Homeowner,” but foresight like this makes it crystal clear that he knows exactly what he is doing. We then cut the hole in the floor after planning the particulars of the seat. Of course we had to do some minor re-framing in the basement, but no big deal. We made some raised panels and raised panel doors, and then built the seat to connect the two cabinets.

The last step was to wait until the cabinets and all of the layers of trim had been painted and cleaned up, before installing the hardware.  We were like a couple of little kids waiting ’til mom and dad got their cups of coffee before we could rocket down the stairs to see if Santa came. Finally, the day came. And what a memorable day it was. We had BOTH gotten Red Rider BB guns!!! The only caveat: He gets to keep his Red Rider, while mine simply morphed into a memory and a goal. I think the greatest part, though, is listening to him explain how this project has changed the way they use the home. It seems that the library has lost it’s use as a media center and now serves as a cozy retreat to read by the fire. How can you beat that?

 

By John Bradshaw

Tackle Custom Interior Trim Carpentry in the Winter or Summer?

Our clients have been asking regularly about whether we also do interior work. This tells me it’s time to write a blog post about interior trim work to provide a small sampling of what we can do.

This is an example of woodworking with poplar we did several years ago, during the winter. It has stayed tight with no cracking or bulging. No need to keep caulking and repainting. The “white” lines you see on the crown molding joints are glare from the camera flash.

We’re passionate about all carpentry. To date, our blog posts have been entirely about exterior projects because we feel that sealing water out of the building is job #1. So, when you no longer have water vulnerability, well heck yes we should talk about your interior wish list.

If you’re thinking about moving forward on a custom trim carpentry project, displaying an exquisite vision that showcases magnificently honed carpentry skills is likely one of your goals. That makes perfect sense. And if we’re going to bring your vision to fruition, we’ll want to ensure that it looks and functions flawlessly for a long time to come.

That brings me to the part where we talk about what conditions are ideal for an enduring and beautiful product. First, let’s get the wood species out of the way. If you want a stained product, then choose the species you like. If you want a painted product, then we’ll be selecting poplar to work with, along with cabinet grade plywood and possibly other accessory products. We choose poplar because of it’s availability and affordability. More importantly, we choose poplar because of it’s stability, strength, and straight and smooth grain. Commercially available poplar is not ever suitable for exterior projects in New England though, it turns black and rots easily. But, it’s phenomenal for interior painted woodworking.

Next, wood is hygroscopic, it absorbs or desorbs moisture in effort to reach equilibrium with the relatively humidity. If your home does not have humidity controls here in New England, then we need to understand what the wood is going to do in the future, in response to the relative humidity changes of it’s environment (the home). Barring humidity controls, wood expands as relative humidity rises in the summer, and shrinks when relative humidity drops in the winter. Don’t think that you can fight the “hydraulics” of it, you can’t. You could slow the absorption or desorption by sealing all sides before installing, but this only slows the process. Alright, that’s enough of the technical mumbo jumbo for now…I’m giving myself a headache. Most importantly, proceed with your trim project when the wood’s moisture content and humidity conditions are ideal.

So, as far as ideal conditions, do we want to be building these things during the winter or the summer? Long story short, winter…conscientiously. The wood has already shrunk, in large part, and will not be continuing to shrink. Therefore, you cut, glue, nail and paint the trim during the winter; then, it’s only going to get tighter in the summer. This can be terrific, unless overdone. The wider the boards are, the more they will shrink or expand. If you have boards that are too wide and too dry, they will buckle or cause other components to buckle when they expand in the summer.

Look at this photo. I believe that this trim was installed during the moist summer months, shrank during the dry winter months and exposed a gap at the mitered joint. The gap was filled with caulking and repainted during the winter months when the wood was still contracted. Then, the wood expanded again during the summer months, squeezing the caulking back out of the joint.

How can we help this joint at this point? I don’t know, Bobby-Jo. I suppose I would probably use a better grade of adhesive caulking that stays pliable. I would apply it during the fall, maybe October when the drying has begun. Essentially, shoot for the halfway point between it’s max expansion and max contraction. Then, paint it. You could expect it to be squeezed during the wet summer, but hopefully just form a slight bulge in the paint, and then subside again in the winter, while remaining bonded. The key here is to not use a hard, unflexible product. This would pop out when squeezed during the wet summer months, every time. Hmmm. It’s October now. I think I’ll ask this customer if I may try this experiment and monitor and report back after several changes of seasons.

To wrap it all up, for the sake of your project, please choose to do your custom interior woodworking project in the winter, to ensure tight joinery all year round. For the sake of your wallet also, you’ll want to tackle this during the winter. Why? Well, you may have an opportunity to save a little bit of dough by offering a New England craftsman an interior project to keep him or herself warm during the bitter winter cold. Most elite craftsman are in a minority these days, keeping them in demand year round, but you may have just enough luck to find one looking to fill a winter time slot. Cheers to moving forward with your vision!

 

By John Bradshaw

 

Alternative Paint Prep for Lead Paint

We recently set up in South Berwick to paint 2 sides of this beautiful Queen Anne Victorian that we handle all of the maintenance and improvements for. Painting is not typically what we are called upon to do, but we can certainly provide a quality job.

The best thing to do, of course would be to scrape or grind the paint off down to bare wood. This is cost prohibitive, in this case.

This home/insurance agency is easily 100 years old, and has been very well maintained. It receives very regular exterior paint jobs, so there need not be tons of scraping. This is good news, because for the safety of all, the EPA has begun to enforce very stringent lead paint removal guidelines. Essentially, projects with a lead paint affected area greater than 3′ x 2′ are to be turned into a hazardous waste removal project. I know because we are a Lead Paint certified firm with the EPA.

This has a catastrophic impact on time and budget, but is sometimes unavoidable. The point I’m trying to make, is that if you can accomplish your goals, whatever they may be, in a manner that avoids turning the project into a “The Boy in the Plastic Bubble” type of jobsite, the sometimes stressful remodeling experience may be a bit less painful.

This is an example of a different means to the same end.

This blog post was an afterthought. Therefore, this pic is after applying the Geocel 2310 brushable sealant to it.

Our clients’ goal: To get an affordable coat of paint on the home in order to beautify and protect, for long term results. This is entirely plausible because the home has been maintained with vigilance. It receives semi-constant painting, thus never getting to the point where it needs a paint overhaul.

There are, however, some areas that could use some sort of extra tlc. This built-in bench is one such area. Can we get a durable paint job without turning this into Area 51? Can we do this even considering the alligator skin type of scaling that’s going on now? Yes, of course we can do this.

There’s a product by Geocel called 2310 Brushable Sealant. If you ask the manager, Pat, at Ricci Lumber, he’s been carrying it for 35 years. I haven’t nagged him to verify this for authenticity or exaggeration, but it’s certainly not a newfangled, untested product.

After removing any visibly loose and unbonded paint, the application of the 2310 product is this: You lay it oooonnnn. Now, I don’t mean that you lay it oooonnnn like bringing your best girl home from dinner at the 99′s, turn off all the lights but one, feel around until you bump into the ipod, and turn on a little Barry White… type of lay it oooonnnn. No, no, no. I’m talking you just brought your lady home from a catered picnic on the beach at dusk. You slip into the living room, snap your fingers and the lights going out seem to simultaneously ignite flaming candles at opposite ends of the room. A death glare is flashed, and before you even focus your Jedi mind tricks on the ipod, Barry White is smoothing himself out all over your living room… type of lay it oooonnnn.

This is the final product…and, of course, we still need to paint the decking underneath.

Buuuuhhhht, I digress. What I’m trying to say here is that this isn’t the type of thing you want to rush through. I don’t want to be doing just a little skim coat. I want to lay it on. This product is so goopy that when you apply it properly, it is rather self-leveling. It also has amazing adhesion and flexibility properties. You don’t want to “lay it on” too thick, however. We’re not pouring a bartop here. When you put just enough of it on, it will fill all those alligator cracks and bond the surface. It is not going to look like a brand new bench, but that wouldn’t fit the character of this home anyway. The disclaimer here is that the “self-leveling” and “filling all those alligator cracks” happens while it is wet and not yet fully cured. Once it is fully cured, it has leveled off some of those things, but not nearly as much as what it would seem when wet. That’s ok, though. The main objective is to bond all of the cracked paint so the new coat won’t be a waste of money.

There is another product available that performs the same job of binding the paint. It’s available at the best paint store on the planet: Central Paint in Dover, NH. It’s called “Trim Magic” by a company called XIM. It’s much easier to spread, especially on a larger surface.

Now you see why I’m called “The Michael Jordan of Painting,” and it’s not because I want you to throw me the brush with the game on the line!

I hope that the introduction of of these 2 new products into your toolbox will help you tackle some painting projects to help protect your charming New England home. Don’t forget to follow all of the EPA guidelines when working with lead paint, to protect yourself and others. Also, always wear your safety glasses, don’t forget the hearing protection, brush your teeth after meals, and put on a clean pair of underwear. By the way, why do we say “pair” of underwear?

 

By John Bradshaw

 

 

 

 

Seeing Red

As you look at the roof, the right portion has been pressure washed already, but the right portion not. You can also see that the butt edges of the shakes that have already been washed will need a quick zip over them with the stiff bristle brush. We don’t want to be too aggressive spraying up at these butt edges. Also notice there are a few small shingles under the bottom of the skylight flashing that we’ll have to re-nail. Plan on a little bit of that.

I was recently contracted by a long time homeowner in Newcastle, NH to go through the exterior of his home and look for problems and areas needing attention in anticipation of putting the home on the market in the spring time. He only spent a moment with me, just long enough to mention that he wished he could get the cedar roof replaced for less than $30,000. Then, he left me to evaluate the home and report back.

This assignment threatens me with an anxiety attack every time (fortunately, I’m not prone to anxiety attacks). I never want to tell clients that they have unexpected problems. This home happens to be just a touch over twenty years old, not an era renowned for fine craftsmanship.

Good news: Nothing more than a handful of rotten trimboards, seal the chimney, clean the moss and lichen build-up off the roof, and we’re home-free. I delight in reporting that the home was very well built.

So, we took care of the rotten trim, sealed the massive chimney, and treated the moss build-up with ‘Wet and Forget’. The problem was that the moss build-up was so entrenched that I estimated that it would not just wash away over time after this treatment.

The homeowner was really concerned about the roof, and rightly so. I eased his concerns a bit by stating that the cedar roof is actually in great shape and has another decade of life ahead. Buh-hut, I also had to offer that roofs, windows, and heating systems are the 3 big ticket items that either turn away prospective buyers or take $ out of the seller’s pocket. He agreed 100% and asked what I could do about it. “Well, we could pressure wash the roof. It would tear off the old and dead skin cells, so to speak, and reveal the beauty underneath. Let’s exfoliate your shingles!” The reason we could pressure wash his shingles is because they are California- Hand – Splits. They’re about twice as thick- and irregularly shaped- as regular cedar shingles. He jumped on board, and then one-upped me, “Then, we could spray the ‘Wet and Forget’ on the roof to prevent future build-up.”

Sounds enough like a winning plan, now we just have to execute. When wet, the roof is like a ‘Slip and Slide’. We would have to use roofing harnesses and walk it with the pressure washing wand to clean it. We started a pool to see how many times I would slip and eat cedar shingles on day 1. Only twice, and they weren’t half bad. It was actually pretty rewarding to turn a client’s old roof into a new roof. But, it was mind-numbing work.  Not that the work I do is rocket science, but every now and then it’s nice to have a non-cerebral day. I only wish I had chosen a better last song. The last song I listened to in the truck was Def Leppard, now stuck in my head like the guy in the x-ray that didn’t see the javelin coming.

This back side of the garage roof took me about 5 hours to wash. This is after drying.

On day 1, it took me 5 hours to pressure wash a section of roof measuring approximately 30 feet wide by 16 feet up. It took an additional hour and a half to spray it with the “Wet and Forget” to keep moss and lichens from building up again. Remember to test out which tip to use with the sprayer so you don’t tear apart the soft cedar, and try not to spray uphill too much, this could cause leaks, obviously. Also, keep in mind that cedar turns gray in the sun, no matter what. So if you’re thinking it’s going to look like brandy spankin’ new forever, you may want to rethink that.

This is the front side of the garage after washing. We usually ask clients to at least shut their car doors before pressure washing above.

If you’re thinking about doing a project like this, please remember that a bit of pre-planning can go a long way. Don’t let Def Leppard pour sugar on you all day long! Enjoy.

 

By John Bradshaw